Merry Christmas from Retrovoltage!

ahifichristmas

Radio & Television News, December 1954

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What’s On Your Workbench?

People ask me what kind of gear I use at Retrovoltage for projects. So, here we go:

While it’s by no means the best-equipped workbench out there, it has a good mix of lab- and service-grade equipment which can take care of nearly all of my needs. We’ll start in the top left.

The BK Precision 1787 is a 0-30V, 0-1.5A regulated programmable power supply with constant current and constant voltage modes. I generally use it when working on portable transistor radios, or anything else which takes standard low-voltage batteries to operate, or low-voltage DC. It’s pretty reliable, but doesn’t deal well with back-EMF leakage: when I attempted to use this supply to power a small PAM Class D amplifier module, the voltage would swing around wildly and ultimately trip a protection circuit.

Next is the Atten ATF208 dual-channel 20 MHz function generator. It has sine/square/ramp/pulse/noise options and a number of pre-programmed arbitrary waveforms. It’s fine, although I don’t care much for the user interface, so I don’t really use it that often. It also has a frequency counter built into Channel A, I think.

Up top is a 3A variac, with both banana plug outputs and a standard AC port. It’s fused for protection and has a master “off” switch.

Above the variac is a universal step-up/step-down transformer which accepts all types of plug connctions, on the left, and on the right is a multi-tapped isolation transformer for working on series-string radios.

The HP 3324A 21MHz signal/function generator is my go-to for low frequency test signals while debugging, and it’s also a fully capable sweep generator. When hooked to an oscilloscope in XY mode and paired with a suitable detector, you can use the 3324A to align IF passbands. I also use it as a signal source for externally modulating my AM and FM generators. It’s very intuitive to get started, although some of the more complex functions take an awful lot of button presses to set up.

Below is an HP 16500B mainframe, loaded with 6 x 100 MHz @ 400 MSa/s and 2 x 250 MHz @ 1 GSa/s digitizing oscilloscope cards. (I have a spare 100 MHz card, as well, and could reconfigure this to easily be 8 simultaneous 100 MHz oscilloscope channels if needed.) The 100 MHz scope cards aren’t anything special, but the 250 MHz card is my fastest oscilloscope.

Eventually, I’m planning to upgrade this to a solid-state CF card instead of the aging IDE hard drive, and install a 16500H interface module which will provide LAN connectivity for extracting screenshots. I don’t use a 250 MHz scope very often, though, so this is fairly seldom used.

The Oregon Electronics A3 variable voltage regulated power supply is a lab-grade vacuum tube replacement supply. This one was in use at the University of Washington for decades, eventually made its way to a ham radio operator in the Tacoma area, and from there onto my bench after an estate sale. I refurbished it in-house, and it gets used occasionally when I have a radio which needs some power supply troubleshooting. It supplies 6.3V heater voltages at several amps, 0-300V DC at 300 mA and -150-0V bias voltage. I’ll eventually use it to supply heater and stabilized screen-grid voltages with my curve tracer once it’s restored.

This is probably my most important and most special piece of test equipment, the Audio Precision System One with DCX-127 Multifunction Module. Driven by a Windows 98 PC, this is a complete system for measuring and characterizing audio devices. The gold standard for audio test, this is an incredibly low noise (<0.0007% THD through the audio range), sensitive analyzer for making amplitude, distortion, phase, power bandwidth, and other instruments. Very few if any other repair shops have one of these on their benches, and it makes fantastically detailed graphs. Nothing like an Audio Precision to prove that an amp is working better than it’s factory specs after a full restore.

The multifunction module on top provides a low-current DC voltage source, voltmeter, 4-wire ohmeter, RS232C control inputs and outputs, and a bank of general-purpose digital inputs and outputs which would be useful if I were to connect this to an integrated testing platform, but largely go unused today. It came with the rest of the system, though, so why not?

Most commonly when I need a scope is my Rigol DS1102E. Compact and reliable, this sits on my bench in front of the rest of the stack and I use it for quick stage tracing on amplifiers, as well as monitoring waveforms. Through the USB port, it makes nice screenshots for posting, too. Shown here having its sweep triggered by the SYNC OUT on the HP 3324A generator from above.

Behind the Rigol is an HP 140T plug-in oscilloscope mainframe, currently loaded with an HP 8553L spectrum analyzer front-end (0-110 MHz) and HP 8552B spectrum analyzer IF section, showing a small section of a frequency modulated signal from an external generator.

On the shelf, I have two complete additional sets of plug-ins each with their own 8552B IF section: the 8556A LF section, from 0-30 / 0-300 kHz with a 600 Ohm input and built-in tracking generator, and the HP 8554B RF section which is a 100 Hz – 1250 MHz spectrum analyzer front-end. I don’t use either regularly, though: I have a better instrument for audio spectrum analysis, and only once have I needed to work above the top end of the US FM broadcast band.

Down on the bottom left is a Tektronix TM506A power mainframe. This one has 6 slots for various Tek plug-in modules. There’s a 4-digit multimeter and a frequency counter, an SG502 low-distortion audio oscillator, and the very rare SG505 Ultra-Low Distortion Oscillator (<0.0009% THD) and AA 501A MOD WQ audio distortion analyzer with filters. The AA 501A MOD WQ is my only analyzer which is capable of intermodulation distortion (IMD) measurements.

Up top, there’s an analog Tektronix 2246 four-channel, 100 MHz oscilloscope. The first two channels are fully outfitted, but the second two channels offer only a couple of vertical sensitivity options so they’re somewhat less useful. Primarily used as an X-Y display with alignment tools, or to view AM modulation waveforms that aren’t captured well by the Rigol.

The Sencore SG80 AM/FM Stereo Analyzer is my main tool for alignments. It aligns the U.S. AM and FM broadcast bands, has a calibrated 75-Ohm output, and variable pilot, modulation, and SCA controls. There’s also sweep generator functionality and an internal audio drive. It also offers C-QUAM AM Stereo functionality…which I don’t think is in use anywhere anymore, but it’s nice to know that if someone wanted their oddball AM Stereo receiver aligned to spec, I could do it. This SG80 makes certain assumptions about the receiving bandwidth of the device being aligned, though; precise alignments on some tube and transistor gear could benefit from a bit more flexibility. There’s always a way to get there, but sometimes it’s a little extra work with the fixed settings on the SG80.

The LogiMetrics 921A is an older lab-grade AM signal generator. Refurbished by a reseller and with the Nixie tube circuitry removed and replaced with an N3ZI Compact Counter, this is a decently stable instrument once it warms up and offers a CW or a modulated signal, variable modulation level, and a calibrated output up to 80 MHz. I use it primarily for aligning shortwave bands on radios.

The HP 3585A is my main spectrum analyzer. It’s good from 20 Hz all the way to 40 MHz, so it covers the audio frequencies and most of the shortwave bands. I use it for everything from FM IF passband alignments, FM Stereo audio adjustments (it’s a good visual for removing residual 19 kHz pilots and tuning various traps) and similar. It’s connected to my computer with a USB-GPIB adapter which I use to pull screenshots for publication. There’s also a second, identical unit to the right. This one has a high-stability 10 MHz reference installed; the other has the standard reference and also one of the RF relays has gone high resistance which causes it to fail automatic self-calibration on some settings. I may fix the second one at some point, or I may use it as parts for this working one if it comes to that.

Top right is the Keithley 2015 THD Multimeter. This 7.5-digit bench meter is very, very sensitive and offers all the good features including averaging, 2- and 4-wire Ohms measurements, and AC and DC voltage and current measurements. It also contains a fully functional low-distortion signal generator, and THD analyzer offering THD and THD+N capabilities. The internal signal source is pretty good, although the AP is about 20x better. The analyzer, however operates standalone from any external source. I use this primarily when doing alignments by distortion analysis, such as FM, more than characterizing amplifiers. Before the AP, though, I’d take a dozen readings and plot them on a chart by hand.

The HP 1220A dual-channel oscilloscope gets used as a waveform monitor attached to the analyzer below it. The CRT is getting very weak, though – it needs to be turned up to maximum intensity to be visible at all. I’ll probably replace it with a different scope soon.

The Sencore PA81 Stereo Power Amplifier Analyzer is one of my most useful tools. It’s a set of switchable stereo meters,  4/8/16/32 Ohm  100W RMS / 250W intermittent dummy loads, 10K terminated RCA line inputs, external inputs for use as two sensitive analog meters, and oscilloscope outputs. It’s perfect for measuring power and sensitivity of amplifiers, and the relative measurement functionality and scales marked in dB make it perfect for FM stereo separation adjustments.

Finally, there’s some switch wiring to decide whether the audio chain should be powered by the bench amplifier (blue) or a “guest” amplifier, and whether that signal should end up going to the Sencore PA81, the Klipsch bench speakers, or to a set of terminals for external speakers.

One of the best investments, was my Hakko 472D de-soldering station. This benchtop vacuum de-soldering pump comes with a pretty steep pricetag but makes de-soldering, and especially PCB work, a breeze.

And that’s it! I do have several pieces of other test equipment lying around, but not in a usable state. Maybe that will change some day if I find time between Rain City Audio projects. There’s a Hitachi scope that might be a good candidate for replacing the HP, but behaves nonsensically with some combinations of settings. There’s a Leader FM Stereo signal generator which offers a bit more control than the Sencore, but suddenly developed a fault which trips the protection crowbar as soon as it’s powered on. There’s the Tek 575 curve tracer. There’s an HP 143A oscilloscope mainframe – a version of the 140T mainframe shown above, but featuring a massive 15″ CRT, and enough plugins to make a dual-trace, single-ended X-Y display, a differential input single-channel X-Y display, or a 15MHz oscilloscope. And there’s an HP 140C rack circle-screen oscilloscope.

What’s on your bench?

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It’s Beginning To Look A Lot Like Christmas

1936Christmas

Bring the Sound of Christmas Into Your Home with RCA Victor Radio

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Collector or Bargain-Hunter? There are Craigslist deals out there.

If you’re like me and have a liking for vintage electronics, you’ll know that they turn up in a lot of places. Craigslist tends to be a pretty good spot for radios and even piles of tubes from time to time, but vintage test equipment is a bit harder to find. Occasionally, though, you’ll find something really special like this old Tektronix 519 microwave oscilloscope on Craigslist – and for free, too!

An old tektronics type 519 oscilloscope from 1960s. I don’t have a power cord that fits the plug to test it. No other accessories. Its very big and heavy, you’ll need a car and a couple of strong people to pick it up.

Big and heavy indeed! The Tek 519 was an engineering marvel at the time it was released in 1961 and it stayed in production until 1973.

tek519front

Coming out at a time when companies like HP were just getting up to the “kilomegacycles” ranges through sampling techniques, or harmonic pre-selectors to shift GHz signals down to the ranges of conventional oscilloscope bandwidths of the time, the Tek 519 was a brute-force, direct-measurement instrument. It wasn’t suitable for most everyday usage (a weird 125-Ohm input with a proprietary connector, and fixed vertical sensitivity of 10V/cm) but if you needed an instrument that would display a GHz signal in real-time, this was the one for you.

It took some hefty power to make it all work, of course. The Tek 519 scope weighed 99 lbs. and uses a whopping 650W to get the job done, a large portion of that powering the 4CX250 horizontal sweep tube (more often found in transmitters and similar) which had to respond incredibly quickly to signals, and a 24,000V CRT voltage. It wasn’t possible to locate a catalog price for this rare instrument, but when new, it could easily have cost as much as a house.

Just goes to show you that, if you’re paying attention, you might find a good deal on something interesting! This particular one is reportedly going to pass through several hands on its way to a Tektronix collector in Germany.

Closer to home, I picked up my Tektronix 575 Mod 122C  Curve Tracer on my local Craigslist, for a pretty good deal but not free unfortunately, back last August. These are also pretty rare. The Mod 122C extends the collector and base voltages which makes it, with the addition of a stabilized power supply for screen voltages and a negative-step amplifier, suitable for curve tracing both transistors and vacuum tubes.

It saw a pretty hard life, apparently. A bit of rust inside, and nearly all of the tubes were cracked in their sockets which made removing their shells more interesting than I planned for.

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Fortunately, I have a full set of tubes from a scrapped parts unit curve tracer, so it shouldn’t be too bad. These use 36 tubes, plus the CRT, and two transistors.

Ever find anything good on your local Craigslist?

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Make Christmas Special This Year with Allied Radio!

cat62AlliedChristmas

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Enjoying the View

I don’t know about you, but I think a huge satellite dish like that that would be a pretty cool, retrofuturistic yard decoration in addition to being interesting for a lot of other applications.

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What do we have here?

I was reading about how to build a capacitor checker from the December 1959 issue of Popular Electronics and stumbled across something that looked very familiar.

Dec-1959-Popular-Electronics

I know that shape.

Bose-901s

Nearly identical to a Bose® 901 Series I/II cabinet, and even specifically references expanding the sound field with a reflected wave. The 901 series uses what Bose calls “Direct/Reflecting” technology.

Anyone know about these “Cosmos Industries” speakers? Does anyone know any of their names, who might have gone on to work for the early Bose® corporation?

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Bose® 402E Active Equalizer #102853 Repaired

The first Bose® 402E Active Equalizer, for the Panaray speaker system, just came through the shop. It’s a small speaker array system, designed around similar drivers in the 901, and uses an Active Equalizer for the same effect. They’re designed for a limited frequency response, 90 Hz – 16 kHz, up to 120W at 8 Ohms.

It’s a small box with two channels of 1/4″ TRS. There are no adjustments. Inside, there’s a power supply similar to that found on a Series III or IV, three op-amp chips, and a handful of electrolytic capacitors. This unit was noisy and had uneven volume when it came to the bench, and those should components should have it good as new again.

The board was produced in early 1985 in Atlanta, apparently.

It was time for some tests. It sounded pretty good, but how was it performing? I ran a frequency response sweep on the Audio Precision System One:

Both channels perfectly matched, in an interesting saddle curve rolling off sharply at 100 Hz down past -30 dB at 20 Hz, and a healthy boost to the high end. Comparing with the service manual,

Identical. This 402E Active Equalizer is performing perfectly and should work great for years to come.

 

 

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Retrofitting Light Fixtures with New, High Efficiency LED Bulbs

I posted a while back about LED filament bulbs that use the new silicon-on-glass manufacturing process to produce Edison bulbs with thin strips of LEDs. Perfect for where you want that vintage styling of an incandescent bulb without all the wasted energy and extra heat. Since then, I’ve moved to replace nearly every one of my home’s light bulbs with various types of LEDs.

The results? Brighter, whiter, cleaner light that makes my living space look larger and neater – all while removing almost 100W of electricity which was going to generate nothing but extra heat.

I started exploring after one of my CFL bulbs came apart in its socket, leaving the mess dangling against the side of the light fixture.

My place is ridiculously well insulated, and the efficiency improvements for me are less about my energy bill and more about removing waste heat. Every watt of electricity that isn’t producing light turns into heat instead. A classic 60W incandescent bulb produces about 600 lumens of light output. The same light output in a compact fluorescent bulb consumes around 18W (with 42W per bulb of heat removed from the environment), and an LED or LED Filament bulb puts out the same amount of light for around 10W.

There were three main places I replaced CFLs with LEDs: in the bathroom vanity and fan fixture, in recessed lighting in the bedrooms and hallway, and in a number of desk and floor lamps. LED light bulbs come in several styles which are appropriate for different installations.

For the visible bathroom fixture lighting, I went with the new LED filament bulbs. These are available in quite a few places these days, even turning up in my local Home Depot. Japan and Taiwan, led by their research into semiconductor manufacturing techniques, were the first to develop these bulbs but manufacturing of less-expensive variants quickly moved to China.

Reportedly, the Chinese bulbs use a cheaper resin over the LED strips which becomes brittle after a few hundred hours of operation (of an expected lifetime of around 20,000 hours) and can fracture when removed and re-installed or if they’re bumped in their fixtures. Not a problem for my application, but it is one thing to keep in mind if you’re thinking of installing these somewhere they might get roughly handled.

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These seem to be the simplest designs – just a number of series combinations of printed LEDs forming a filament, 1W per filament, connected in parallel to achieve the desired light output. I picked up 8W bulbs, producing about 900 lumens at 6000K, or about as much as a 75W incandescent each. I’m a big fan so far, although these do strobe most noticeably; it’s visible in the steams of water coming from the sink and shower taps. The rolling shutter on my camera really picks it up too, but they look fine with human eyes. They’re warm to the touch but cool enough to handle even after running for a while, due to their low power consumption, and they’re filled with an inert gas to help with heat transfer.

There’s a pretty cool “how they’re made” video on YouTube, too, that’s worth the couple of minutes it takes to watch.

These go for about $7 per bulb on eBay.

For the recessed lighting fixtures, I selected some LED flood light bulbs. These come in a ton of different sizes, styles, and color combinations and while I ended up with a physically smaller size than I expected, they put out plenty of light. These also came from eBay but many, many vendors offer bulbs in this style and they’re available at big-box home improvement stores, and even my local neighborhood hardware store if you want a name-brand like CREE or similar.

These bulbs are an interesting construction. There’s a pretty simple two-transistor power supply and a set of series-parallel surface mounted LED chips bonded to a substrate and covered with the diffuser

ledflood-powersupply

ledflood-stockphoto

This gives them less flicker than the LED filament “Edison” bulbs, although the camera’s shutter can still slightly pick it up.

There’s a good teardown video on YouTube, too:

These consume 15W each and put out around 1300 lumens per bulb, for a cost of around $10 each.

Finally, for my lamps, I selected another style of bulb. Most of my lamps seem to take E12 “candelabra” style bulbs, for some reason. Incandescent and florescent E12 bulbs are limited in their power output, mostly due to their heat dissipation, but since LEDs are so much more efficient there are many more options available. Moving to LEDs allows me to use bedside lights with brighter bulbs than they could otherwise take, and have a more aesthetic result.

Since these lamps all have lamp shades, I opted for some LED “corn bulbs“.

These are a simple arrangement of chip LEDs mounted in a circular stack and covered with a plastic housing. Light output varies widely – from these 7W models putting out about 600 lumens up through huge models putting out 6500+ lumens. These look very interesting, for sure, but kind of weird when exposed so I only used them inside of lamps with shades. They seem to have a simpler power supply, too, with the large amount of flicker.

Shown here, I used an E12-to-E27 adapter, an E27 splitter, and a pair of E27-to-E12 adapters to fit two of these bulbs into a single socket for double the light output. I wasn’t able to find any E12 splitters, which was a bit weird. They look great in the lamps, though.

These were only about $2.50 each, too.

All in all, this has been a good upgrade. I’m satisfied with the light they produce, and in one of my most frequently used (and lit) rooms, the extra heat removal has translated to about a 2 degree decrease in the temperature so it’s more comfortable overall. Based on the energy consumption, it’s about $0.15 saved per hour that every single one of these bulbs is active simultaneously, or more realistically probably about $0.07 per hour. So, the payback in power bills will take a long time, but in addition to being cooler these won’t need to be replaced for about a decade barring an unexpected failure.

You might be eligible for incentives provided by your local electric utility for upgrading, too.

If you’ve been on the fence about LED lighting, don’t be. The technology seems to be in a pretty mature place. Give it a try!

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Service Shortcuts – November 1932

Radio Retailing brings you some helpful service shortcuts:

Tube Numbering That Means Something

The RMA is seriously considering a new three-character system of marking radio receiving tubes which may shortly come into general use in place of the present meaningless type numbers. Easily grasped, the system makes it possible to roughly identify all tube types by their designations without resorting to complicated charts. A detailed description of the plan follows.

The first numeral is to be definitely related to filament, or heater, voltage.

0 to 2 volts: 1
2.1 to 2.9: 2
3.0 to 3.9: 3
4.0 to 4.9: 4
5.0 to 5.9: 5
6.0 to 6.9: 6
etc.

The second character is to be a letter, arbitrarily assigned to distinguish tubes having the same filament voltage and same number of elements from each other. The first tube of a given type to be marketed will be classified “A”, the second “B” and so on. Thus a 24 would be a 2A5 while the later 35 would be a 2B5.

The third character is to correspond with the number of usable elements having external connections.

Following is a table which shows old and new designating numbers of standard receiving tubes.

Do not use this chart as a tube substitution reference.

(It wasn’t adopted quite as described, though. For instance, a “6E5” tube – understood in the above chart to be a #42 power pentode, is actually an eye tube. Do not use the above chart as a tube substitution reference.)

Practical 175 Kc. Oscillator

Here is a circuit diagram of a 175 kc. oscillator used in my shop. It employs a type 30 tube and is completely encased in an old brass shield taken from a battery radio. Batteries could have been external, with the leads to the oscillator shielded. 22 1/2 volts is sufficient plate potential for a strong signal.

Practical 175 Kc. Oscillator Fig. 1

The main oscillator coil, L2, is wound in the slot of a wooden form having the dimensions shown in the attached drawing. It should consist of exactly 196 turns of No. 21 s.c.e. wire wound 14 turns to the layer, tapped at the 98th turn. The pickup coil, L1, is 14 turns of No. 21 s.c.e. wire basket-weave wound to 4 1/2 inches in diameter, squared off and fitted around the main coil. A coil wound haphazard fashion in the hand, securely tied with string, will do if basket-weaving forms are not available.

Practical 175 Kc. Oscillator Fig 2

To calibrate the device I selected a superheterodyne known to have accurate dial calibration. The oscillator was connected to the input circuit of this set and the receiver tuned to exactly 875 kc. Then the oscillator dial was rotated until it produced the loudest possible signal.

The device may of course be used to generate signals within the broadcast band of frequencies by selecting the proper harmonics.

A Replacement Mercury Switch

Several makes of automatic record-changing phonographs employ a liquid mercury switch of the tilting variety as part of the changing mechanism. These frequently become cracked, allowing air to seep through the glass and foul the mercury.

To replace these switches where the time required to secure delivery from the factory cannot be spared secure a small pillbottle having the same dimensions as the original switch tube, a rubber stopper and two ordinary sewing needles. Fill the bottle about 1/4 full of mercury, insert the stopper as tightly as possible and then push the needles through it as far apart as possible. Solder flexible leads to the protruding eyes of the needles and then coat bottle and needles with molten wax.

Fasten the completed unit to the switch tipping frame in the same manner as the original mercury unit.

Knob-Removing Cord

To remove contrary tuning and adjusting knobs of the slip-on type take a piece of heavy cord about 9 in. long and tie the ends together, forming a loop. Now tie a knot approximately in the center of the loop, thus forming the cord into two loops.

Slip one loop behind the knob and the other on your fingers and pull. The knob will come away without damage to either finger-nails or cabinet.

High D.C. Voltage from a 6-Volt Battery

An old B-eliminator may be quickly and cheaply converted into a device for obtaining high d.c. potentials from a 6-volt storage battery. The same device also provides high a.c. potentials which are useful in the shop.

Disconnect the 5-volt filament winding which normally heats the 280 rectifier and short the two socket filament terminals together as shown in the accompanying diagram. Leave the high positive lead to the filter circuit untouched. Plug a BR rectifier into this socket.

High D.C. Voltage from a 6-Volt Battery

Now, connect a high-frequency buzzer, the contacts of which are shunted by a 1. mfd. high-voltage condenser, in series with the 5-volt winding and a storage battery. Thus connected the 5-volt winding becomes the primary winding while the original primary is left open. High-voltage d.c. may not be obtained from the output circuit of the device while high-voltage a.c. is present across the original primary leads.

Using a Majestic eliminator and the primary of a Ford spark-coil for an interrupter the output will be approximately 190 volts d.c. Adjustment of the vibrator points is not unduly critical. Current output is largely determined by the character of the buzzer used.

3.8 Volt Pilots

Number 13 Mazda focussing 3.8-volt flashlight lamps work out fine where 2.5-volt pilot lights repeatedly burn out due to excess voltag.e They are also handy when 2.5-volt bulbs are not immediately available.

Try the number 13, too, in Sparton sets using 3-volt filament type 485 tubes.

Curing Cone Rattles

If shellacking a cone and centering its apex fails to remove objectionable rattle press the rubber of a lead-pencil firmly to the extreme edge of the cone where it is clamped or glued in place. Try the pencil pressure on top, bottom and sides, being careful not to press so hard that the cone is damaged, until a point is reached where the rattle ceases.

If the cone is glued, smear shellac heavily between frame and cone at this point and let it try. If it is clamped, loosen the clamp enough to permit the insertion of a small soft-wood shim.

Another Well-Equipped Test Bench

Bill Garlitzs of Coraopolis, Pa., sends us this photo of one of his two excellently equipped test benches. Note the set analyzer, tube checker, two oscillators, output meter, battery charger and complement of tools.

Another Well-Equipped Test Bench November 1932

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