Music Minder Automatic Power Controller for Hi-Fi Systems

Mixed in with some other gear I’m servicing, I found this old Music Minder power box. It’s not all that obvious what it’s for at first glance!

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Some digging around found an explanation in the June 1958 issue of Popular Mechanics:

June 1958 Popular Electronics

Neat! Let’s see in more detail:

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It’s a pretty unassuming box. Plug the turntable into one, the hifi into the other, and set the switch to “Automatic”. Manual appears to leave the Hi-Fi Equipment plug always-on, leaving the power to be controlled by the unit itself.

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The bottom is crimped on, but easily removed by bending the tabs back up.

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Pretty simple inside! A couple of sockets, and a relay whose actuator coil appears to be in series with the record player plug. While the record player is running on “automatic” mode, current would flow and close the relay, powering the Hi-Fi Equipment socket. When the record player switches off at the end of the record, the relay would un-latch and kill power to the amplifier. Simple, but effective! That looks like a burn spot, though, right by the coil.

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Indeed, there’s a charred strip in the relay’s winding where the coil burnt up. Maybe someone plugged a high-power amplifier into the record player socket, and it couldn’t take the excess current? Either way, this interesting hi-fi accessory appears to be a display piece only, but it’s still fun to see!

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Reviewing the Gemtune APPJ PA1501A 6AD10 Stereo Tube Amplifier

I recently picked up an interesting little tube amp via a group buy on Massdrop, the Gemtune APPJ PA1501A stereo tube amplifier. Try saying that three times fast! It’s a cute little single-ended stereo tube amp using a pair of 6AD10 Compactron tubes which have two functional sections, one voltage amplifier pentode used for the amp’s input stage, and a beam power tetrode used for the amp’s output stage that’s fairly similar to a single-ended old school (no suffix) 6L6. The manufacturer suggests it’s good for 3.5W of output power, single-ended, per channel. And it looks good, too! Not bad for under $200.

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The 6AD10 Compactrons used in this amp were originally used as integrated audio sections (detector/driver and output) in a number of televisions and combination units towards the very end of the tube era but not many other places, so while they’re not as common of an “odd tube” as something like a 5AQ5, etc. they’re readily available, and they don’t get talked up much for audio use other than in this amp (and rebranded versions thereof) and some sites about homebrewing with junkbox tubes. As such, NOS replacements can be had for as low as $5 if you want to try different brands of tubes and see how they change the sound.

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The amp is physically quite small, under 6″ cubed, and has a very minimalist design. Everything is in mid-matte silver with subtle labeling, also available in black. There’s a single volume control on the front sporting a machined metal knob that feels decently weighty, a pair of ceramic 12-pin Compactron sockets, and output transformers hidden inside shrouds with banana plug ports on the rear. The manufacturer names the output transformers as Japanese Z11-EI48 models which I assume is meant to signal quality, although there’s still no substitute for more iron in and output transformer no matter how carefully the laminations are stacked and windings are threaded.

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There’s also the input RCA jacks, IEC power input, fuse, and switch. Very minimalist. The banana plug spacing is perfect to accommodate standard separate, or dual banana plug arrangements. With only one input (and a low power rating), this is really meant to be a single-source desktop amp driven from a DAC or high-end sound card.

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Glows nicely!

Inside, there’s a switching power supply and an assortment of Nichicon and Rubycon capacitors. There appears to be a solid-state stage ahead of the tubes based on the TO-220 transistors up near the volume control.

Lifting off the top, there’s a shield protecting the output transformers from picking up interference from the switching power supply located below them, and an assortment of passive components supporting the gain stage and power stage of the 6AD10 tubes. There are also a pair of LM431 “Adjustable Precision Zener Shunt Regulator” in an SOT-23 package to provide power regulation.

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The specifications were given as follows:

Specifications:
Tube: 6AD10
Power Output: 3.5W+3.5W @ 8 ohms
Frequency Response: 30-40Khz (+-1db)
Input Sensitivity: 500mV
Signal-to-Noise Ratio: -80dB / 3.5W
Residual Noise < 0.5mV AC
Input AC Voltage: 100-250V AC
Power Consumption: 38W
Input Impedance: 10K ohms
Output Impedance: 8/6/4 ohms (Japan Z11-EI48*24 Output Transformers)

Time to see how it stacks up. I used a set of Klipsch RB-4 II desktop speakers, and a set of Ohm Acoustics Model D speakers for sound tests. For test equipment, I used the Keithley 2015P multimeter for some quick checks, the Sencore PA81 Stereo Power Amplifier Analyzer, and the Audio Precision System One. All tests – both listening and performance – were administered after the amplifier had a chance to break in by playing a 1 kHz tone into an 8 Ohm dummy load for approximately 8 hours, then sat overnight, and allowed to warm up for 15 minutes before testing to ensure everything has had a chance to unlimber after manufacturing and shipping.

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I’d have to say that I enjoy the sound of the amp well enough. Both the Klipsch and Ohm speakers are quite efficient, and I never felt like it was really straining to give me the volume I wanted, without much distortion. Mid-bass through treble was well defined, but the bass was much more reserved than I expected it to be given the published specifications. The amp itself was very quiet even with the volume turned up at no signal, somewhat surprisingly. Running in Class A certainly helps.

The fit and finish was probably a 7/10. Some of the machined edges were a bit rough, and the machined knob manages to actually be *sharp* in one spot. The volume knob doesn’t rotate perfectly smoothly through it’s travel, it binds slightly in the middle. The transformer covers are a nice touch with the standard-spacing banana plug receptacles on the rear, but it’s also obvious they’re concealing small output transformers. With an output transformer, the more iron you have the better bass you’ll get. Small transformers limit the low-end power available but large, good quality transformers quickly get expensive.

The electrical measurements did put the feeling about the bass into some context. First, the output transformers appear to be designed for an 8 ohm nominal load, as that’s where they delivered the greatest output power. 6- and 4-ohm connections delivered lower amounts of power respectively due to the mismatch but only moderately. At 4 Ohms, the apparent power reduction was around 10%. Both the power output sensitivity measurement, and the frequency response, were somewhat out of bounds however.

Sensitivity Into 8 Ohms

Power vs. Input Signal Level (1 kHz, 8 Ohms)

Sensitivity Into 4 Ohms

Power vs. Input Signal Level (1 kHz, 4 Ohms)

Gemtune proposed 3.5W into 8 Ohms with 500 mV sensitivity, in other words, with the volume control turned to maximum applying a 500 mV signal to the input jacks will cause the amplifier to deliver 3.5W into an 8 Ohm load. As shown on the “Sensitivity Into 8 Ohms” my example of the amplifier fell somewhat short of this goal, delivering only 2W at that input level. It took about 1.5V at the input terminals for 3.5W output.

Into 4 Ohms, the amp fared even worse making about 1.7W with 500 mV, rising to 3W at 2V. At those power levels, I’d be worried about damaging something if operated that way long-term. The kink in the sensitivity charts occurs about 700 mV and gives about 3W into 8 ohms or 2.7W into 4 Ohms, above that it tapers off as the output tubes are being pushed to their maximum and more input signal can’t drive them any harder. I wouldn’t recommend driving it harder than 700 mV at full signal, which caps this amp’s effective power to just shy of 3W into an 8 Ohm load and a little lower into a 4 Ohm set of speakers. Due to individual differences in the tubes, the power output starts to diverge at the extremes of the chart. More markedly at 8 Ohms than 4, interestingly enough, likely due to the lower overall power output at 4 Ohms.

Freq Response 10-100K

Frequency response, 10 Hz – 100 kHz, into 8 Ohm load. 0 dB @ 1 kHz.

Frequency Response 20-20K

Frequency response, 20 Hz – 20 kHz, into 8 Ohm load. 0 dB @ 1 kHz.

The frequency response was given as 30 Hz – 40 kHz +/- 1 dB. I’ll give them “close enough” on the high end (-1 dB just shy of 40 kHz) since that’s well beyond human hearing anyway. The low end was a bit disappointing, though, with the published roll-off being more optimistic than reality proved. The channels diverged by 0.5 dB on the low end, although as the channel separation is less than the flatness specification (0.5 dB < 1 dB) this isn’t something where I’ll give them a negative mark. However, the -1 dB point was located at about 46/55 Hz; at 30 Hz it’s down to -2.3/-2.65 dB and at 20 HZ it’s down to -4/-4.55. This definitely explains why I felt the bass was a bit lacking.

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That’s not to say I think the amp is a bad performer. I think it’s a good, starter tube amp. It’s not trying to be anything more than what it is, which is a slightly novel desktop tube amplifier with a sleek and minimalist design that will fit in nearly anywhere. The 6AD10 tube is an interesting touch, and they’re available pretty inexpensively.

Overall, this is a 3/5. It’s value matches the price paid for it, and this type of performance is what you get for that price. A great splurge for a person just getting into audio in high school or college, someone who wants a small tube amp for their desk and wouldn’t mind having someone ask about it, someone who likes oddball tube amps, or who just wants something a little different.

[ Amazon ] [ Massdrop ]

Posted in Audio, Commentary, Electronics, Hi-Fi, Stereo, Toys | Tagged , , , , , , | 15 Comments

Would you look at that!

It’s pretty, but this 12BA6 tube has amplified for the last time. Vacuum failure has led to a gas intruding into the vacuum, and it makes a great light show when it’s being tested!

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As cool as it looks, this would cause some significant damage in a radio if it were operated that way.

Posted in Photos, Radios and Tubes, Vintage | Tagged , , , | 1 Comment

Bad Caps in Everything

I just had a bit of a scare with my Audio Precision analyzer. The 2004-era Dell OptiPlex GX270 which drives the AP hardware decided it would refuse to power up – just flashing the “ON” light for a fraction of a second, then back off again. Since that analyzer is pretty central to what I do in the shop, this was a major problem.

It’s not the easiest piece of gear to get running, either. If you have an APIB interface card, the legacy APWin software will work in Windows XP – but if you’re using the parallel port redirect VXD, you’ll need Windows 98 because VXDs aren’t allowed on any later OS.

A quick inspection inside the old PC showed the problem immediately…bad caps on the motherboard.

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Fortunately, Dell made a large number of these OptiPlex GX270s. I picked up another one on eBay, swapped the hard drives, and fired it up. DSC_0040

Fortunately, it worked the first try! Everything is as it should be. I’ll probably make an attempt at replacing the capacitors on the old motherboard, just to ensure I have a backup PC around if there’s any trouble, but for now the problem is solved.

Posted in Computers, DIY, Electronics, Test Equipment | Tagged , , , , | 3 Comments

DBX SFX-10

I saw this interesting set of speakers on Craigslist, but they sold quickly before I could investigate. They’re the DBX SFX-10s. There’s a very interesting article about their design in the May 1990 issue of The BAS Speaker, the publication of the Boston Audio Society which goes into quite a bit of detail, but the long and short of it is that they’re a pair of speakers designed to provide a fully omnidirectional sound field – and in the paper, there are polar plots to show they did a great job of it.

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These are another uncommon design of an active-equalized speaker, similar to the Bose 901, EV Interface, and an early McIntosh line. Has anyone experienced these before? If you own a set, I’d be interested in studying the Soundfield Imaging Controller in my shop; I’d pay shipping to borrow it for a week or two and hook it up to my Audio Precision System One to see what it does.

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Bose® Active Equalizer Test Platform

This project is going to take a while since I’m slammed in the shop, but I’m in the process of converting a Bose® 901 Series I Active Equalizer to  a test platform. With sockets for the transistors, and clip connections for the important capacitors, this platform will let me experiment more easily with various different upgrade choices to see which offer the best performance.

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Unfortunately, there’s no strict “before” measurement since the vintage caps are dead and this unit isn’t producing any output right now (the overwhelming case on Series I equalizers), but I’ll take some good measurements with the bare minimum components needed to do a successful test as the baseline and see where it goes from there.

Should be interesting!

Posted in Audio, Bose, DIY, Electronics, Stereo, Test Equipment | Tagged , , , , , | 3 Comments

“Won’t that ruin the vintage sound?”

Audio as a hobby sits in an interesting place in the world. There are hard numbers and objective measurements made with lab equipment on one end, and on the other end you have the subjective and variable linguistic descriptions assigned to amplifiers, speakers, and even cables and wires on the other.

Sadly, I find myself in the position of having to clear up some pretty serious misconceptions for people after questions and comments to this effect have popped up on several forums, an e-mail to the shop, and a rather rude note (with very poor grammar and spelling) accusing me of “ruining the vintage sound” on a piece of gear by daring to replace faulty components with new ones.

So, to that end, a few points of clarification:

1. When your vintage amplifier was new, it used new parts. 

That’s right. Your vintage amplifier used to be a shiny, new amplifier using the best materials and engineering techniques the factory could muster. For most amplifiers made in the 1970s, there’s not a huge difference in the quality and operation of components then and now. Capacitors are a bit smaller now, and generally are built to tighter tolerances with some different materials, but their fundamental principle of operation remains the same. It’s true that some exotic parts could have a noticeable performance impact, but these aren’t common and are hard to buy by mistake.

Stick with decent quality components from a reputable brand, like CDE, ELNA, Nichicon, Panasonic, Sprague or Vishay and you’ll get parts that are significantly similar to whatever the manufacturer picked out when your gear was new.

2. The sound signature of your amp depends more on the circuit design than the passive component choices.

That’s right: passive components don’t really change that much, if anything. The layout of the components on the circuit board, the choice of circuit topologies used to fulfill the various functions and needs, the design of the power supply and the enclosure, and the cable routing inside the housing are the biggest contributors to an amplifier’s unique sound signature.

The brand of capacitors you used (assuming you’re using good-quality parts) has almost no impact on the sound whatsoever.

Active devices can cause a bigger change in sound than passives. The selection of active devices – the specific transistor used and it’s group/rank if acceptable can make a difference in the sound, which is why it’s important to replace active components with replacements as similar as possible to the originals. In general, though, even substituting transistors won’t significantly change the sound of an amplifier unless you’ve replaced a whole lot of them, or they were somewhere very sensitive in the circuit. Since the vast majority of repairs require no transistor replacements whatsoever, this tends not to be a real problem.

3. If your gear really has a “vintage sound” to it, you’re most likely hearing the amp’s problems and not the amp as its designers intended.

Pre- and Non-Hifi gear aside, if your amp or other stereo component hasn’t been serviced in a long time and has a specifically colored sound signature that you’re calling “vintage sound”, you’re hearing problems in the circuit. Leaky and failing caps throw off response curves, cut bass response, rob the amplifier of stable power, can throw off bias introducing distortion, and generally make a mess of things.

Amplifiers in the heyday of stereo, just as today, were designed to deliver accurate and lifelike reproduction of recorded audio, and the manufacturers generally tried for as flat a frequency response and as low of a distortion figure as possible given their engineering constraints and target market/price.

In Conclusion

If you like your music to be clouded in unpredictable ways by failing components in an out-of-adjustment amplifier, by all means, don’t replace old parts, or replace them only with NOS parts. You’ll have an amplifier that’s constantly in and out of the shop until one day it finally dies a final death at the hands of faulty parts destroying something unobtainable.

Alternatively, do you want to listen to your vintage gear sounding as it’s manufacturer intended it to sound when it was new? Do you want to listen to your music the way it was recorded and the way the band and the recording engineer wanted it to be heard? Do you want to use an amp that’s safe and reliable to operate? If you answered yes to any of these questions, then professional service with quality replacement parts is the answer.

What do you think?

Posted in Audio, Commentary, Electronics, Hi-Fi, Vintage | Tagged , , , , , , , | 3 Comments

Neat Little 60FX5 Stereo Single-Ended Tube Amplifier

While digging around, I came across a really simple circuit in the RCA Receiving Tube Manual describing a 1WPC stereo amplifier using only two tubes, the 60FX5 power pentodes, and a single silicon diode. The 60FX5s have high enough gain they don’t need a driver stage, and were designed to use a crystal or ceramic phonograph pickup which is compatible with the output voltages of most modern electronics, too.

60FX5 Power Pentode Stereo Amplifier

Looks pretty easy. This is something like you might find in a portable suitcase record player or similar, on the lower end of the cost spectrum.

If I were going to build this – and I might if I ever get a spare minute not working on repair projects – I’d probably start with an isolation transformer like the Triad N68X for safety, and eliminate the 0.22M resistor and 0.1 uF capacitor in the chassis network. The diode would be a 1N4007, naturally. The output transformers might be a tougher, though. I’m not sure of the specs on the Triad S-16X they specified, but with a low-power, economy amp like this one would probably not have met the day’s hi-fi spec, 40 Hz – 15 kHz. Small output transformers just don’t have enough iron to really couple bass well, among other things. There’s the Edcor XSE10-8-3K, offering 70 Hz – 18 kHz +/- 1 dB at $19 a piece. A transformer that’s flat 20 Hz – 20 kHz would be massively oversized and cost considerably more, like the Edcor CXSE25-8-3K coming in at over $90 each unit.

The 60FX5 tubes themselves are about $8 a piece on eBay. Ceramic 7-pin sockets are only around $2 each, too. The controls are probably about $10 – I’d just use a dual 1 Meg audio pot, and find a 2 Meg trimmer for the balance control and pre-set it during construction. The rest of passives would cost about another $10, a power cord, a cake pan from the grocery store for a chassis and you’re at $100 in parts to build the amp from the ground up. You’d need to use very efficient speakers, though!

If anyone builds one of these, and you send it to me, I’ll measure it’s specs with the Audio Precision analyzer!

Posted in Audio, DIY, Projects, Stereo | Tagged , , , , , | 5 Comments

The Speaker Spotter – March 3rd, 2016

Some interesting stuff on Craigslist in this week’s The Speaker Spotter, a curated selection of Seattle’s local speakers for sale online. As always, Retrovoltage is not affiliated with any of these sellers and you should click through the link to the original post if you’re interested. If a link is dead, most likely those speakers are gone!

Vintage JBL L55 Speakers
$250 in Burien, WA

Just south of Seattle, this pair of vintage JBLs have some cosmetic damage to the cabinets but look to have intact drivers, and will for sure have that vintage JBL sound you can’t find anywhere else. As far as the condition, well…speakers are meant for listening, not watching, anyway!

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Bose 901 Speakers
$325 in North Kenmore

This looks to be a solid deal for a set of Bose 901 speakers, which come with their original equalizer and paperwork. They seem to be in decent cosmetic shape, although with an equalizer that old it probably could use a once-over for the best sound. Series I and II have cloth surrounds, so there are almost never driver issues with these older pairs, too.

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Tannoy DC-200 Dual Concentric Speakers
$425 in Lake Stevens, WA

It’s a bit of a drive, but if you’re a fan of Tannoy it might be worth it to check out these DC-200 Dual Concentric Speakers. Their current owner reports he’s their second and they’re in good condition. I’m not very familiar with Tannoy speakers, other than having heard the name a bit, but they seem to use concentric/coaxial drivers like KEF and some older EV speakers. Looks worth checking out!

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KEF Q65 Tower Speakers
$250 in Olympia

While we’re talking about concentric drivers, here’s a KEF Q65 with a 6×9″ bass driver and concentric mid/tweeter, UK built and ready for bi-amping if desired. They look to have a decent frequency response, 38 Hz – 20 kHz at 91 dB sensitivity. I’m always a fan of strangely-shaped drivers, too.

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Phase Research Transmission Line Prototype Speakers
$140 in Everett, WA

These look interesting, and worth including, since I’m a sucker for anything that’s a one-off, prototype, or just a generally-unloved speaker from the ’70s. These are from 1978 and feature an interesting driver array and transmission line cabinet with rear opening. I wonder how they sound!

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Totem Acoustic Hawk Speakers
$1600 in Olympia

Speaking of transmission lines, if you’re in the market for something a bit higher-budget, these might be a good choice. They look like they’d be a great speaker if you’re looking for something that delivers tight sound, while still having a nice “furniture” look and likely wife-acceptance-factor. Spendy, though!

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ESS Tempest B2 Speakers
$350 in Everett

ESS was and is famous for their “air motion transformer” (AMT) tweeters which are a very interesting electrostatic hybrid design. Plenty about them written elsewhere, but if you’re looking for that kind of speaker in a large bookshelf form factor, this one’s for you.

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Dali Helicon 300 Home Stereo Speakers
$1995 in Tacoma, WA

These boutique-brand speakers feature a 6.5″ woofer, and both silk dome and ribbon tweeters. I bet they’re fantastically accurate while still being smooth in the high end. Great looking finish on these, too. I’d love to give them a listen!

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Carver Loudspeakers
$2000 in Redmond, WA

Haven’t seen enough ribbons and planar tweeters yet? Or maybe your speakers have a small surface area and you’re craving wide open spaces? These gigantic Carver electrostatic planar speakers might be what you need. They look to have two active elements, upgraded ribbons, and each appears to be about the size of your average door. I’ve never heard these myself, but Carver has a great reputation for amps, of which this seller also has many.

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New Bench Storage

Some pegboards, and wall mounting some parts bins, really cleaned up the benchtop!

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